
I tried a couple of new blades same problem. In the middle thickness being less than the thickness on the ends.Īt this point, I knew that I had to find out why the blade was diving in order to keepįrom continuing to mill boards that weren't consistent. The cant and cutting on the other side, thus the blade diving took place on both sides resulting The beams, however, were bowed inward on both sides due to cutting on one side and then flipping In the middle as the ends but showed a convex bow on one side and a concave bow on the other side. Previous cut matched the diving on the present cut. I then realized that the boards had a consistent thickness because the diving on the The wider the cut was, the more pronounced Thickness in the middle as the ends, I noticed that they all seemed to be bowed outwardĪ little on one side and bowed inward a little on the other side.īut it was the beams that I was cutting that were bowed inward on both sides and thus I then check a number of boards that I had previously cut and though most were the same The blade) it gradually rose back up to the original dimension". In other words, the blade was gradually diving to the middle of the cutĪnd then (because of the increasing pressure from the tension of Then I checked the 6" dimension and it also was gradually thinner in the middle than on the ends. Also, at 3' into the cutĪnd at 9' into the cut, it was about 9 & 7/8". I measured the 10" dimension and it wasĮxactly 10" on each end but in the middle it was less than 9 & 3/4". It was thinner in the middle than on the ends. So, I checked it with a string and sure enough, In the middle and not just on that one side, but on the other side as well. I noticed that it did not seem to be straight it seemed that it was bowed concave

Then one day, as I was sighting down a 6"x10"x12' beam that I had just sawn, The boards always seemed to be the same thicknes end to end and side to side. I check the lumber frequently to see if it is sawing evenly. I have milled about 2 dozen logs thus far. I have the Norwood model LM29 sawmill I got it a couple months ago. (and it might apply to the other models as well), then you mightĬheck to see if you could be experiencing this same problem. If you have a Norwood sawmill, specifically the LM29 On the bandwheels, can cause the problem that I experienced. In the way the carriage is raised and that flaw, coupled with the lack of a plumb adjustment But I think that it has a definite design flaw I think they make a decent sawmill and there are a lot of featuresĪbout it that I like. Liftgate not available.Let me start by saying that this post is not meant to bash Norwood sawmills.
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The complete and easy-to-read manual makes it easier to assemble and maintain your sawmill. based Documentation Department and is packed with useful information.
#NORWOOD SAWMILL PORTABLE#
The G0901 28" Portable Sawmill comes with a one-year warranty which covers replacement parts. 035" x 1.3 TPI Sawmill Blade from Supercut is available. It is always a good idea to have a second blade around. If twelve feet of track length isn’t enough for your operations, the T31677 6' Bed Extension Rails for G0901 Sawmill is available. Our engineers worked hard to create the ultimate sawmill with the capacity and solid performance needed to get the job done right in the field! Two adjustable work stops hold the log in place, while a manually adjusted workpiece clamp prevents movement during cuts. The cut thickness is set in 1/16" intervals with the locking hand crank and the sturdy 4-column saw carriage moves smoothly along the track on ball-bearing rollers.

The track is modular, allowing you to easily attach and level additional 6-foot-long sections in order to mill practically any length of lumber you need. The Grizzly G0901 28" Portable Sawmill is designed for quick setup with a rock-solid, 12-foot steel track with adjustable feet capable of leveling on just about any surface. Grizzly G0901 28" Portable Sawmill Mill your own lumber right off your property!
